Polynucleotides: The Science Behind the Skin Regeneration Treatment

Polynucleotides — sometimes referred to as PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) — represent one of the most significant advances in regenerative aesthetics over the past decade. Unlike hyaluronic acid fillers, which temporarily add volume, or botulinum toxin, which relaxes muscles, polynucleotides work at a cellular level to support the skin's own regenerative mechanisms. For menopausal skin, where the deficit is structural rather than superficial, this distinction matters.

What Are Polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are long-chain fragments of purified DNA, derived from salmon or trout sperm cells (through a highly purified extraction process that renders them non-allergenic and safe for human use). They are not a filler. They do not add volume in the conventional sense. They are, essentially, a biological signal that tells the skin to repair and regenerate.

The active mechanism involves adenosine receptors — specifically the A2A receptor subtype — present on fibroblasts. When polynucleotides bind to these receptors, they upregulate a cascade of regenerative activity:

• Stimulation of fibroblast proliferation (producing more collagen-generating cells)
• Increased synthesis of collagen and elastin
• Promotion of angiogenesis (new blood vessel formation, improving skin oxygenation)
• Anti-inflammatory activity
• Scavenging of reactive oxygen species (anti-oxidant effect)

The result is a gradual but genuine improvement in skin quality — not a temporary volumisation, but an actual improvement in the structural composition of the dermis.

The Evidence Base

Polynucleotides have been used in wound healing and orthopaedic medicine for decades. Their application in aesthetic medicine is more recent but supported by a growing body of peer-reviewed evidence.

A 2022 review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology evaluated the use of PDRN for facial rejuvenation and found significant improvements in skin elasticity, hydration, and objective wrinkle depth following a treatment course. Patient satisfaction rates were high, and the safety profile was excellent across the studies reviewed.

A 2021 randomised controlled trial published in Dermatologic Therapy found that intradermal PDRN injections significantly improved periorbital wrinkles — one of the most challenging areas to treat — compared to placebo, with benefits persisting at six-month follow-up.

What is particularly compelling for our patient population is the evidence around skin thinning. Oestrogen decline causes measurable reduction in dermal thickness and collagen density. Polynucleotides appear to work upstream of this process — stimulating the cells that produce collagen rather than replacing the collagen itself.

Polynucleotides vs. Skin Boosters

A common question from patients is how polynucleotides compare to skin boosters (such as Profhilo or Restylane Skinboosters).

Both are injected into the skin. Both improve skin quality. But they work differently:

Skin boosters contain high-molecular-weight or specially formulated hyaluronic acid. They improve hydration directly, restore some dermal HA content, and provide a plumping, luminous effect relatively quickly.

Polynucleotides do not contain HA. They work by triggering collagen and elastin synthesis. The results are slower to appear — typically visible at six to eight weeks after a course — but represent a more fundamental improvement in skin structure.

For many of our patients, the two treatments are complementary: skin boosters for hydration and immediate luminosity; polynucleotides for deeper structural regeneration. Your physician will advise on the most logical sequence and combination.

Who Benefits Most?

Polynucleotides are particularly appropriate for:

• Skin with visible thinning or loss of structural density
• Periorbital area (fine lines and hollowing around the eyes)
• Neck and décolletage (areas often ignored but significantly affected by hormonal change)
• Skin recovering from significant sun damage
• Patients who want genuine regeneration rather than volumisation

They are also an excellent option for patients who prefer to avoid the risks associated with high-volume filler treatments, or for those whose anatomy is not well-suited to traditional filler approaches.

The Treatment Experience

At London & Glow, polynucleotide treatments are preceded by a medical consultation that includes skin assessment and a review of relevant history. Treatments are administered via intradermal injection using a fine needle, following topical anaesthetic. Most treatment sessions take 30–45 minutes.

A typical course consists of three sessions spaced two to four weeks apart, followed by maintenance treatments every four to six months. The gradual nature of the results means that patience is required — but the changes that emerge are genuine improvements in skin biology, not temporary cosmetic effects.

A Note on Product Quality

The polynucleotide market has expanded rapidly, and product quality varies significantly. At London & Glow, we use only established, clinically validated polynucleotide formulations. We do not introduce new products without reviewing the clinical evidence for that specific formulation. This matters — the mechanism of action depends on the purity, molecular weight, and concentration of the polynucleotide chains, all of which differ between products.